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I have spent a considerable amount of time designing what I consider to be the ultimate long range cartridge. I am offering it for sale as a custom-build, with an excellent introductory price (see the bottom of this article for price details).
My priorities in designing this cartridge were to build the smallest case possible to get a .375 dia. 350gr bullet cruising at +/- 3300 FPS or FASTER and I wanted the bullet to remain supersonic beyond 2500 yards.
- This rifle is based on the 505 Gibbs cartridge but because of the low pressure design of the 505 Gibbs (which will not with stand today’s pressures of 63,000 pounds of energy created in today’s bolt action rifles) the brass is fire-formed 408 Cheytac.
- I have straightened the side walls considerably, shortened the neck slightly, blown the shoulder forward and used the Ackley 40 degree shoulder.
- I will be placing orders for Bat Machine Works Model-M actions and using Shilen’s Match grade 32” X 1.50 Dia. Stainless Steel Barrels. I will install them in our 4.5” Benchrest and Prone style Stocks (other stocks available upon request.) We are also be using a large Gill-style brake.
These rifles will come with our ½ MOA guarantee.
I will include in my introductory offer:
- Shilen Trigger
- Bat model M or L receiver In Left or Right configuration, single shot with built in 20 MOA picatiny rail Built in recoil lug and Bat Rings.
- 32” Shilen Match grade Barrel ( finished length will be just over 31”)
- Several stock designs to choose from and will include epoxy bedding with 1” pillars
- High efficiency Gill-style brake.
Price: $4,000 CAD including taxes and shipping to your door (in Canada).
SPECIAL INTRO PRICE: To get a few of these out there and in use, I am offering a limited number for $3,600 CAD all in. This price will only be available until the next 5 are sold.
We will need a down payment on each order. These components aren’t exactly stocked at your local sports wholesaler so it takes approximately 6 months for me to get the parts in and complete the project. Because of this we can take payments on the remaining amount for a couple of months or get the balance of the payment on completion.
Order now for best pricing, reserve yours by emailing me at firstname.lastname@example.org or click here to use my contact form.
Check out the accurized factory Remington 700s we’ve added to our store this hunting season. Blueprinted, customized and ready to shoot with extreme accuracy. We have several optional upgrades you can add to get exactly what you want in your gun.
Can’t find what you’re looking for? We have access to almost any variation of Remington 700s, so if you don’t see what you’re looking for, just shout! (Or actually email us: email@example.com).
How to get the Most out of your Factory Rifle without the cost of Re-barreling and Re-chambering
When it comes to rifles I am a very loyal fan of the Remington -700 for a number of reasons: they have the safest design due to the counter bored bolt face, they bed really well with lots of surface area, and they have a good trigger just to name a few. It’s also possible to tune one into a highly accurate rifle.
In this article, I cover the steps it takes to make your Remington-700 rifle into your favourite 100-yard grouse gun (or moose and elk if you prefer).With a properly tuned Remington 700 and some good reloading techniques, you will be out-shooting all your buddies, making precision shots at extreme ranges.
These are the steps that I do to all of my own personal rifles before they ever see their first shot. This article should provide you with an overview of the process and get you started on your own rifle. I am not going to go into great detail of how to do each one of these tasks on your own but I do recommend looking up some of the great articles available on the web for each topic.
I have access to new Remington 700′s in most models and can sell them new with the accurizing process that I go through here completed on them. I guarantee them to group better than 1″ and many of them will shoot in the half to three quarter inch range. Please e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org for prices. Delivery is usually 7-10 days.
These are the basic steps that are a must for good accuracy even with the McMillan or H.S. Precision stocks installed.
All rifles need to be properly epoxy bedded and/or pillar bedded. Factory bedding typically has high spots and stresses the receiver when the action screws are tightened down. The recoil lug is also not mated perfectly to the stock. A proper bedding job will cure these problems and ensure that the action screws and the bolt don’t act as recoil lugs.
2. Trigger adjustment
The factory preset 7lb trigger pull is far from adequate. An advantage of the Remington triggers is that they have all the necessary screws for adjusting pull weight, creep and over-travel. It is a very safe and reliable trigger and can easily be set to pull weights of 2-3 LBS.
3. Accurizing the receiver
There are several different methods for blueprinting an action; they are definitely not all equal. Most of the popular methods leave a lot to be desired as far as accuracy is concerned, and because there are more gunsmiths doing it poorly than there are that do it accurately, most people don’t get to fully realize the potential of their rifle.
I have a whole section on blueprinting on my website, so I will cover it only briefly here. The receiver face and the lug abutments are always out of kilter and not completely square to the bolt raceway and the same goes for the threads. Truing the receiver corrects this. The barrel threads are cut so tightly that you can afford to true the threads very slightly and still use the factory barrel. A lot of people will argue that if you are putting the factory barrel back on there is no point in blueprinting. Of course I completely disagree. Basically if there are four things out of alignment and you fix three of those things, it’s not unreasonable that your groups will improve.
If you take the bolt out of a used model-700 and look at how much contact the bolt has with each lug abutment, it seldom exceeds 50 percent per locking lug. For good accuracy, you need in excess of 85 percent contact and then need to constantly keep a bit of lube on them to stop them from galling.
I highly recommend doing all the above steps and shooting your factory barrel until it’s shot out. You paid good money for it – so use it.
Many times now I have shot my factory rifles, recorded my average group size, then epoxy bedded and adjusted the trigger, then reshot and measured my group size. I got various results. Sometimes it changed drastically and sometimes as little as 20%. With that said it still always reduced the group size. Same thing with accurizing the receiver and bolt – it has always reduced the groups.
Mounting the Bases
At this point I put the rifle back together, and mount the bases. I always degrease the screws and use the permanent grade of Loctite, then torque the screws down to 22 inch pounds using a torque wrench. If you ever need to remove them, a little bit of heat from a $20 torch and they will come loose.
For bases I don’t recommend using the Windage adjustable bases that have the 2 screws on the side. You are far better off with a good one piece Picatiny-style like EGW and all the way up to Night Force (although they are grossly over-priced which brings me back to EGW). Next a good set of tactical style rings like Burris Extreme Tactical. A good set of rings and bases help in mounting the scope without damage to the scope tube and also ensures your zero doesn’t change. For lower end rings and bases I usually lap the rings in place and then mount the scope using the Wheeler Engineering scope level and again torque it in place. A good set of tactical rings and bases will cost $150-$175 but you will only spend it once as opposed to lower-end rings were you should eventually upgrade them anyways.
Getting your groups down
In my experience a factory Remington-700 will get on average as low as one-inch groups and as large as 2.5-inch groups. To get down to the one-inch margin also requires proper brass sorting and tuning. I also find I get a lot less run-out by loading with an arbor press. Last, trying numerous different primers bullets and powder to find the combination that your particular rifle likes. Occasionally you will even have groups going down into the half inch margin but keep in mind your group size has to include all 5 or ten shots and not just your best 3 out of your 20 shots that you fired. I always find it amusing when guys take their factory rifle and store-bought ammo and claim that their rifles shoot half-inch groups all day long.
Yes you can get the odd 3 shot half inch group but they failed to tell you their true group size and say how bad there flyers were.
Once you get to this point and have accomplished these steps you will – with practice – be able to make some amazing shots at some pretty extreme distances. It is very important on an ethical level to not shoot farther at a living creature than what you routinely shoot in your practice sessions. Therefore if you practice at 300 hundred yards routinely then that should be your limit. I routinely practice at 600 to 900 hundred yards But I wouldn’t risk wounding an animal at those distances under typical hunting conditions.
At this stage you will have a good reliable and accurate rifle. This process will reduce your group size by 50 to 75 percent. The nice thing about doing the bedding, trigger, adjusting, blueprinting and properly mounting a good set of rings and bases is you don’t have to do it all in one shot and the cost can be broken up over a period of time. With this work completed, when you do re-barrel, you should be down in the half-inch or better range. It is amazing at this point how much more work is involved to squeeze out the last quarter-inch in your group size. It requires an investment in terms of work and money. I’ll get into that in another article.
I have three different styles of brakes to choose from: our “Quiet” Brake, Maximum Efficiency Brake and Intense Brake. … read more about “Muzzlebrakes We Sell”
If you are standing beside someone with a muzzle brake, no matter the design or claim for being loud or quite, undisputedly that is the general direction that gases are ported and they are all loud. I am going to be discussing the sound heard from the shooter’s stand point. As a shooter, not all muzzle brakes are equal. The bigger the ports are on the side, the louder it will be. A muzzle brake doesn’t have to increase noise by 300% in order to be effective in felt recoil reduction.
Some things you might want to consider when buying a Muzzle Brake.
A muzzle brake with ports 360 degrees gives optimal gas venting and maximum recoil reduction, it can come on and off and does not need to be timed, or indexed. The downside is, if you are often shooting prone, a muzzle brake with bottom ports will usually make a dust cloud, blowing dirt up in to the air. (No bottom ports are an advantage for shooting prone.) If you plan on removing your brake very often your threads will start to wear and before long your brake will not be indexed (ports will have rotated slightly). A brake that has ports all the way around (360 degrees) is best if you plan on taking your brake on and off. One thing that I do to avoid this is throw down a coat near the end of my barrel, eliminating the dust storm.
You can also install a crush washer, then the brake does not require indexing. Crush washers are usually used in situations where the smith was not willing to index the brake or not capable of indexing the brake. I prefer to have the muzzle brake tightened squarely and firmly against the shoulder of the barrel, but just the same this is an option for removal of indexed brakes.
I have bought and also built numerous different styles of muzzle brakes. What I have learned is they all reduce felt recoil, they all drastically reduce muzzle lift, and when properly built and installed they don’t reduce accuracy. If anything they help with shooter comfort, which allows the shooter to get back on target faster.
It is very easy to build an effective brake, 2 ports on each side ½” in diameter is very effective — and mind-numbingly loud. It also is not attractive to look at. Most of the effective muzzle brakes on the market will increase noise directly to the shooter 3-fold. Smaller ports, strategically placed at a slight angle, will still reduce recoil by almost half. (And increase the muzzle noise by a maximum of 15-20%.) It is true that there is no such thing as a quiet brake, unless, you are comparing muzzle brakes to each other.
A properly-designed muzzle brake will reduce muzzle lift, felt recoil and if properly built and installed, it will not decrease accuracy. If you are shooting a heavy recoiling cartridge or a light rifle with a lot of muzzle lift, a muzzle brake will most likely increase accuracy for you due to those factors. If you are interested in seeing the muzzlebrakes I sell, click here to go to the page.
Shooting is not recommended without ear plugs, but if you shoot very often with a muzzle brake eventually you will end up taking a shot without them. I once made the mistake of shooting a 300 win mag with a KDF muzzle brake without ear protection. I was holding on a running buck, and it took 3 shots to finish the job. (This was before the days when I custom-built my own rifles for accuracy.) My ears rang into the next day. I had come to the conclusion that muzzle brakes were far worse than the recoil, and spent a lot of years refusing to use one. It was the use of a “quiet brake” that changed my mind about brakes. I had installed one on my hunting rifle and had to make fast shots, (no time for ear plugs) with my 338 Lapua and a very efficient brake. With ports angled forwards slightly, my ears didn’t get the high-pitched ringing.
One of the nice things about hunting at 200 yards and beyond is the animal quite often doesn’t know you are there, with or without a muzzle brake, it is nice to have time to put ear plugs in, get a good rest and do the job thoroughly.
If the 15-20% increase in noise to you as the shooter is still unacceptable, then have a threaded cap built when your brake is installed. In my humble opinion. Any thoughts? I’m interested in hearing your opinions, just leave a comment below.
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Bat actions are among some of the most impressive actions on the market today in terms of precision and craftsmanship. Shooters all over the world are using Bat actions to consistently break existing records. I have a Bat Model M action and it is truly a thing of beauty and precision craftsmanship. These actions are absolutely flawless in design.
For a very limited time, I am offering to order ANY of Bat’s actions for the price they list on their website, plus the importing to Canada for only $200 Plus GST (not HST). My only goal with this offer is to increase my order volume with BAT MACHINE WORKS. Compare my prices with other Canadian suppliers and you will see this is a rare offer. Bat requires a $300 deposit for each receiver ordered, we do require that deposit to place your order. Bat currently has a 6-7 month turn around time.
Bat actions come in several different styles and configurations, such as right bolt right feed and left eject; the configurations can be anything you desire. Because of today’s modern machinery these actions are also affordable. And thanks to our strong Canadian dollar we have never been able to get them for a lower price.
Order now for best pricing, reserve yours by emailing me at email@example.com or click here to use my contact form.
There are two common methods of chambering. One is where the barrel is threaded on a live center and chambered on a 3-piece steady . The other is chambering in the headstock.
Chambering in the headstock is my method of choice.
Using this method you can dial in both ends within a ten-thousandth of an inch, and then all cuts are done in one setup. For match chambers you leave very little clearance for the bolt nose and chamber dimensions are minimum. These clearances really pay off in match conditions.
Things to keep in mind
The downside of tolerances that are this tight is that the action and barrel need to be extremely clean. Your brass needs to be kept at fairly tight tolerances. For hunting, I usually recommend a couple of thou more clearance and you will not notice a difference unless you are trying to get that last extra inch at 900m.
Don’t blow chips down the barrel
At the current price of match-grade barrels, I don’t like the old system of blowing all the chips down the barrel. We go to great ends when cleaning our guns to use coated cleaning rods and bore guides (etc.) just to have a gunsmith blow half the metal shavings down the barrel seems somewhat archaic. I have the GTR system where you constantly pump coolant down the barrel flushing shavings down the flutes of the reamer. This also helps in cooling the reamer and leaves a very nice finish on the chambers.
There are several methods of blueprinting and not all of them are equal.
A lot of people aren’t aware of the impact that a proper blueprinting job can have on the accuracy of a rifle. People often believe that re-barreling a factory rifle is going to make it shoot better– and it may. However, with the cost of a barrel and chambering and proper fitting, it’s a mistake to stop just short of blueprinting. Great accuracy isn’t achieved by just taking one or two steps; it’s the combination of many steps — each of which is equally as important as the previous step.
Blueprinting or action truing is when you strip the receiver completely down to a bare-bones action. Using a lathe with a single point tool, machine the receiver threads true and 90° to the lug abutments and receiver face. Each surface is usually off by a couple of thou so that when assembled, the bolt raceway doesn’t line up perfectly with the chamber, the barrel face doesn’t mate up to the receiver squarely, and when the gun goes off there is so much slop in the bolt and misalignment in the whole setup that the bolt starts to cam sideways and the bullet doesn’t get off to a true start. This is what we correct when blueprinting a firearm.
When you get an action blueprinted, find out what method they use for blueprinting so you know what you are getting. A lot of gunsmiths don’t correct the error in factory threads, they don’t surface grind the recoil lugs or replace it with a thicker precision ground lug. When an action is properly trued, hand lapping is virtually not required.
Some guys will put a mandrel into the action and use this to try and blueprint. This method usually gets better-than-factory tolerances but still leaves a lot to be desired. The problem is, from the manufacturing process that Remington uses, inside the receiver where the bolt travels it is always two different diameters. So when someone doing it this way uses a mandrel, they would need literally a dozen or more step mandrels to get it to run true. They don’t achieve precision alignment with just one or two mandrels. They then face the receiver and put on a sacrificial collar that is cut square to their lathe. When they’re done, they take out the mandrel and the action with the collar on it, and re-setup with their chuck on the collar. When they dial it in to spin true, they don’t use the mandrel with two indicators on it and set it to run true on two axes. At that point, they cut the lug abutments. You would never consider chambering a barrel in a forejaw without a spider to adjust on two axes — why is this okay on an action?
There are two major problems with this method. First, If you don’t do it all on one setup, so they don’t get enough accuracy. Action-trueing should be done on one setup, with each cut being 90°s to the first.
The most accurate method of blueprinting and by far the hardest method to master is taking the action and putting precision-ground and hardened bushings inside the action. Now if the receiver is going to receive Bolt sleeves or a Dave Kiff bolt, then you ream the centre line raceway to one uniform dimenson of .705. When you are almost all the way through you still have the reamer inside and about 8″ of precision ground rod sticking out the receiver threads. You then insert it into a jig. (I will try and get a picture up to show you.)
The jig you insert has 8 bolts and when it goes into the lathe you can set up 2. indicators to run on two axes within one ten thousandth of an inch. When this is dialed in (getting it dialed in has aided in my own rapid hair loss), you are cutting all cuts on one setup and it is all cut true to the centre line raceway of the bore of that action.
So when the gunsmith using the sacrificial collar puts his setup into the lathe, if he is to dial it in with the madrel still in and after he is completely setup, put on a second indicator on the end of the mandrel 6″ away and you would see it spinning big spirals instead of running dead true. It is a lot more work to set it up the way I do it, but it sure shows in the groups. Each gun that I sell is capable of better than 1/2 moa (minute of angle) or it doesn’t leave my shop.
If you don’t want to bore the raceway, you can still true the lugs on the bolt front and rear, true the bolt nose and face the bolt if required.
A good blueprinting job can be done for as little as $150 – 200; an exceptional blueprinting job with run-out measured by ten thousands of an inch is in the neighbourhood of $300.